Walking on an old caravan highway and driving back to Leh

Guess who woke me up this morning. Yes, it was the flies that were still in our room. Luckily, they stole me only five minutes of my sleep because we had breakfast at seven anyway. Yesterday afternoon there were many clouds in the sky and in the evening and at night it rained. The garden was still wet, so we had breakfast in the dining hall.
We left Tingmosgang as soon as possible and after a short drive, we were left by the drivers at the edge of a little village called Ang. We started walking on an old caravan highway that was used before the road was built, and although the sun was not shining directly on our heads, it was still very hot. At least it felt hot, my thermometer showed something like 24°C...

our shadows are hiking upwards

One and a half hours later we arrived at our first pass for today. It was 3880 meters high and again marked by prayer flags.
But now only half of our tour was done: we had to walk down into a valley and up again on the other side. I liked that I didn’t have any problems with the altitude. I just walked like I would at home. And the way down was short because I kept talking with a guy from our group and suddenly we were at the bottom. Going up was harder but not long at all.
We reached the second pass with 3815 meters altitude.

3815 meters above sealevel! :)

I was a bit astonished when I reached it because after you go up a steep slope, you don’t expect the pass to be more or less flat on the other side! After having a snack and taking some pictures, we walked down to Hemis Shukpachan, a village that is well known for its juniper trees. There, we walked through green grass and stepped over many little streams. Hemis Shukpachan is an oasis in the middle of a huge mountain desert that has hardly any water. We got lunch boxes and sat in the green to eat them. The things we didn’t want to eat we gave to a small boy who then was happy as a child is on Christmas.

Hemis Shukpachan is a green spot between gray mountains

In total, the four hour-tour was very nice, especially because the weather was not too hot and therefore good for hiking. I didn’t feel completely tired when we arrived and this is a good sign because today we were higher than at the last pass.

What awaited us now was a very long drive back to Leh. The drivers did a really great job because the roads often couldn’t be called roads. In addition to the bad street conditions, we had to wait at a building site. Traffic in India is easy. Nobody obeys the rules and the one with the biggest authority or loudest horn or whatever, wins. Our driver blows the horn at every opportunity: when he doesn’t see around a bend, when there are people on or by the street, when he overtakes and even when he wants to greet somebody. But this is necessary because nobody looks back when overtaking and blinkers aren’t used either...

We safely arrived in Leh and got rooms in our old hotel. Some got the same, we got another which looks the same as our old room. In the afternoon we are going to see a polo match that is set up because of the Ladakh Festival. I never saw a polo match before so this is going to be interesting...

******
I changed the commentary option, if it doesn't work now, I have no idea what to do next.
You can see the picture books now, I had a wrong option there too...
Good night from Leh!

Another monastery, the first nunnery and a hermitage

The flies woke me up today. They seem to like sitting in my face. We could have slept until 8.30 but I could only doze and from time to time shake my head or arms for the last one and a half hours.
We had breakfast in the garden of the hotel and it was the first traditional breakfast we got: Tsampa soup, sweet, Kiachl-like bread, normal bread and spicy potatoes. In addition we had a very good apricot jam, butter and, of course, tea and masala. I still stick to drinking Ovomaltine.
Our guide told us that today was more or less a relaxing day but in total we nevertheless walked a bit. Our first destination was the monastery of Tingmosgang, which is once again located on a hill. The walk up was steep and it was getting hot. I liked the fact that our two drivers joined us. When we arrived on top of the hill, we had a great view over the valley.

view from the monastery

The monastery was originally a palace for the king of western Ladakh. To one statue of the monastery there is an interesting story: it is told that the king once had a dream in which Avalokiteshvara told him to build a statue of him for Buddhist practicing people. The king wanted to obey but his Lama told him that this matter would handle itself. Some time later, the statue that is now in the shrine, appeared out of a fire cloud. Nobody knew where it came from and that’s why it is called the self-born statue. It shall have a wish-fulfilling power and many people, especially women who want to have children, come here to offer special prayers and to have their wishes fulfilled.
In the building next to that shrine, there is a seven meters high statue of Buddha Maitreya, the future Buddha.

the whish-fulfilling, self-born statue

We walked down on the other side of the hill and into a valley. At the end of the road, there was a hermitage. I don’t know how you imagine a hermitage but I can assure you that it looked completely different. It is a new temple that was inaugurated some years ago and is still not finished. We saw workers painting the windows and a fence. The temple itself was painted with very bright colors and it was strange to have new paintings after all those thousand year old, often half destroyed pictures. Inside, our guide explained the life of the historical Buddha, Siddhartha Gautama.
The hermitage is part of the red head school and was built for monks, especially elderly ones, to come and practice meditation and find some peace. There is also a little cave in the mountain for one person to meditate.

not lonely or small at all!

In the shadow of the hermitage’s nice garden we had a short rest before walking down again. We stopped by a nunnery, where we got some tea. It was the first time I finished a whole cup of mint tea with black tea! The nuns were very friendly and offered cookies as well. There was not much to see in the nunnery, so we walked back to the hotel. It was very hot by now and I was afraid of getting sunburned, although I had used sunscreen on my arms twice. I’m quite happy now that I don’t have red arms, they are just a little bit warm. I should wear my long-sleeve shirt all the time when it is sunny...

We had lunch and then left the hotel again. There was no more program on the plan but our guide had the nice idea to visit a village in a near valley. After thirty minutes drive we reached it and walked around while we got explanations on how traditional villages look like. We also saw some secret tunnels which the villagers used to get water without being seen by invaders.

There are still many flies in our room although Annetraud already threw about 40 out of the window already. This is so annoying, you can’t imagine. -.-

Lamayuru monastery and walk through the moon landscape

It was the worst night since we arrived in Ladakh. I woke up again and again, first because it was rather hot in my room and later because I was cold without my blanket. So getting up at 6am was kinda hard...
After breakfast we packed out things together once again, said goodbye to the professor and left Alchi. It was a long drive to Lamayuru and we had some adventurous roads on the way. Near the village, there is a rock formation that is said to look like on the moon, but actually it looks more like in the west of the United States where I was in 2009. Nevertheless you’ll find a Moon Guest House, a Moon Land Hotel and all other possible things are called “moon”.

I have never been on the moon, but I don't expect it to look like this!

At the monastery we met some young monks who were playing in the courtyard and liked being photographed. We visited the assembly hall and our guide gave us some information about the history of this monastery. We saw a cave where the monks saved some statues from invaders who destroyed most of it except for that particular cave. Another important fact about Lamayuru is that the swastika symbol is told to have been first recorded there. This symbol looks like a right turning Hakenkreuz but actually it is much older and stands for the historical Buddha Shakyamuni.
Before leaving again, we turned lots of prayer wheels that were all around the monastery.

The cars brought us to the foot of the hill on which the monastery was built and from there we started our first long hike. Two group members didn’t join, so there were six of us. Our guide made us go slowly, which was very good because I would have run too fast.
It was the first time I used my new hiking sticks to go uphill and they were very handy. We walked through a dry valley again but we hardly noticed the missing water because we were taken aback by the changing rock formation all around us. There were yellow rocks and gray rocks, loose rocks and hard ones. We also saw lots of mountain goats in the distance. One and a half hours later we reached the Prinkiti-La, the lizard pass. It is about 3790 meters high and marked with a prayer flag. On the top, our guide surprised us with some cookies and KitKat which he had carried up for us to eat, which was really nice. Annetraud offered Mannerschnitten and it felt a bit like at home.

Annetraud and me at the Prinkiti-La

The walk down was not as bad as I had imagined it, because during the 550 meters, there were clouds and wind to make us feel less hot. We reached the cars after three hours and had lunch at a nice river which we crossed without our shoes on to enjoy the shade on the other side. We got luch boxes from the hotel which included toast, an egg, an apple, mango juice, a potato, a Milk Treat, cookies and one slice of cheese.
When we had finished, we picked up the two others, who were waiting in the next village, and drove all the way back and further to Tingmosgang. Here we had some tea before we got our rooms which are very comfortable. Maybe that’s because this village is called the richest in Ladakh.

In the afternoon we had spare time which I used to upload my pictures and to get some rest. Also, Annetraud and I did some yoga which was quite funny.
Dinner was not as good as in Alchi but that’s really hard to reach up to. We had buffet again and apricots as dessert.
Now the flies are really annoying me. They got in in the afternoon and now they are sssrrrring around and tickling my arms. Why is there a cow right in front of our window?

How many flies can you find on our room's ceiling?