Another day in Delhi

We slept even longer today than we did yesterday - until 9am! Breakfast was the same as yesterday, except for the fact that I skipped the toast.
Then we packed (everything fit into our suitcases!) and checked out at twelve. We stored our luggage at the hotel and left. It was the first time that we were in Delhi alone and by foot. Immediately an Indian started talking to us and wanted us to go to some strange place and buy souveniers. We tried to tell him in a nice way that we didn't want to go there but finally we just left.

 It was difficult to find a nice location, especially because now constantly people tried to sell us something or to bring us into their shops. Eventually we went into a KFC and had a Coke to cool down and relax a bit. When we  had a look at the map, a man with a turban (maybe a Sikh) asked whether he could help us. He seemed nice and he really was. He showed us a place to shop for souveniers, clothes and all that stuff and even organzed a rickshaw there. Annetraud didn't want to go by rickshaw but she couldn't find enough arguments and so we sat in one of those small three-wheeled things. At the place we were told, we stayed quite long and also bought some things. Then the same rickshaw driver brought us to the shops near Connaught place and showed us a restaurant there. We had Dosai, which was good and not spicy at all. :)

That's what a plain Dosai looks like

Then we walked through the little shops, seached for a cyber cafe, found one and it was closed. Great. At least we saw some more of Delhi. After a rest in a Pizza Hut, we went back to the hotel where we now wait in the lobby until the taxi picks up us at 9pm. Raghav kindly ordered it for us. Thanks again!

Now I'm looking forward to coming back home. Although I heard that it shall snow in Innsbruck!

A day in Delhi with Raghav

Finally sleeping longer! We got up at eight, had breakfast (the toast was not good at all...) and got ready to leave.

Raghav was already waiting in the lobby when I came down. It has been more than a year since I last saw him at the Selection Camp in Switzerland and it was good to be with him again. We waited for Annetraud, who still packed some things and then left. If he hadn’t told me on the phone before, I would have been really surprised that Raghav had his own driver. The best way to travel in Delhi is by car. The public transport is crowded and you really don’t want to take the bike, believe me!

 First, we visited the India gate. Just when we got there, there was some military parade practicing and we watched the marching soldiers a bit. Then we walked down the street that led straight from the gate to the president’s house. On the way we saw boys playing football and cricket on the lawn left and right to the road. Delhi is really green, especially here. We also saw the parliament which is a big building too. It was interesting to see the mixture of British and Indian architecture in the minister’s houses.

Next stop was the Qutab-Minar. This is the name of a tower that was built in early Muslim architecture style. It is 73 meters tall and quite impressive. When we purchased the tickets, we were astonished to read the prices: Indians – 10 rupees (less than 50 ct), Foreigners – 250 rupees (4 Euros)! But nobody would have believed me and Annetraud to be Indian, so we queued for the expensive tickets. At least we got them fast and didn’t have to wait long. Inside there were hardly any Europeans. One Indian took a picture of me while passing by. That is weird to be so special that strangers want to take pictures of you. I mean I’m taking pictures of Indians too but either I ask first or I do it from the distance. I don’t walk up to them, hold the camera to their face, take a picture and leave...

It was getting hot and we decided to use the midday to go shopping and have lunch. Raghav brought us to a huge shopping mall. We bought some souvenirs (I won’t tell you what exactly :-P) and had lunch at McDonalds. Guaranteed not spicy if you take a veggie or chicken burger. But there are many spicy burgers too.

We did some more shopping and then left the cool mall to drive to the biggest Hindu temple in Delhi. I was interested in seeing a Hindu temple as well because most Indians follow this religion and if I am in their country, I want to see that part of the culture as well.

When I saw the parking lot, I knew this was gonna be really huge. The main building already looked impressive from the far. But getting in is not as easy as you think. First, there are loads of things you must not bring. Weapons, cameras, all kinds of bags, food, drinks, electronic devices,... To keep it short: you mustn’t bring anything but your wallet. If you have something with you that is not allowed, you have to queue for a locker to put it in. Luckily, we had the car where we left our cameras and Raghav’s cell phone. So we just had to wait for the security check. When we were divided by gender, I saw a poster with another detailed list of what you must not take with you. And found the words diary, note book and paper. I was afraid that they might take my notebook that I use to write down difficult names, numbers and timelines. So I hid it in the last pocket of my bumbag and hoped for the best. And it worked. The woman who checked me didn’t even see that pocket. But Annetraud had forgotten to put away the battery of her camera. They kept it and said that she could pick it up again after 6pm.

The temple complex is completely new. It was finished four years ago. There were lots of buildings with beautiful carvings, all leading to the main temple, which includes many statues. Everything is made with an eye for the detail and it is a pity that I couldn’t take any pictures of it.

We bought tickets for two shows. One was a boat trip through Indian history. I thought this was meant literally, but we really sat in a boat that drove on wheels through water. Left and right we saw puppets that represented important events in Indian history. It was interesting but I couldn’t take so much information at once. But I do know that many things were invented in India before Europe even thought about it.

The second show lasted for forty minutes and really surprised me because of the amazing technique that was used. It was about Swaminarayan, whom this temple is dedicated to. The tour started with a film and then we had to change places quite often. We came into rooms where there were puppets like in at the boat trip. Only these puppets moved! The robots did realistic movements while the sound came via speakers. Extremely well done! And the story was told in a very interesting way too. As a young boy, Swaminarayan already became a Yogi master after doing a long journey through the Himalayas. Then he became a spiritual teacher and enlightened person at a still very young age. Then we were told about his teaching which is based on love and compassion. It is quite similar to Buddhism, I think.

that's what the temple looks like - picture from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Akshardham_%28Delhi%29

I was really happy that Raghav could explain to us what all the statues in the main temple meant. There was also a big golden statue of Swaminarayan.

I was getting late, so we searched for the exit. Before leaving, Annetraud got her battery back. Funny thing that after getting it back, we weren’t forced to leave right away. We could have gone back in and do whatever dangerous thing you can do with a camera battery. If it were a bomb, we could have blown it up right in the temple. They should check their security checks...

Outside, Raghav phoned his parents to ask about dinner. Annetraud and I were very happy to be invited to eat with them because we were curious to meet them. So Raghav was told that they were already in his dad’s club, waiting for us. We could have gone there straight away, but I wanted to wash myself (I sweat so much in this climate!) and we needed to get the souvenirs we brought from Austria. Luckily, our hotel was on the way and we did a short stopover.

When we arrived at the club, Raghav first had troubles to get in because men are supposed to were shirts with collar. Finally, he borrowed a shirt and we were allowed in. Meeting his parents was very nice. I enjoyed the dinner and I am happy to have met them.

Unfortunately, time flew past and we had to leave. Saying goodbye was hard, this day was much too short. But I think that we used it quite well. I now know a lot more about Hinduism as well as about Delhi.

Thank you for this nice day, Raghav! :)

Getting up early on the last day in Ladakh

Our day started early. After having a light diarrhea at night, I thought about whether it was a good idea to get up at ten past five, but I decided that I probably won’t have the chance again, so I rolled out of bed, got dressed and joined the others in the dining hall. They had tea but I just dared to drink some hot water.

One of our drivers was the “unlucky” one who had to get up early as well. Five of the group members, the driver and our guide squeezed into one of the jeeps and off we went. The streets weren’t as empty as one would expect them to be shortly past six. The first shops opened, people washed themselves and brushed their teeth.

We arrived at Thikse monastery. Few other tourists were here as well. We also met two camera teams, one of them from the Hessischer Rundfunk. Our guide led us to a terrace on the top of the monastery that is – surprise – built on a hill. After this morning sport we were rewarded with a short concert of two horn players who called the monks to the morning prayer, which is called Punja in Ladakh. They called three times and then we could sit down in the assembly hall and watch the morning ceremony. And listen too. Especially the young novices chanted their mantras loudly and were very eager with reading them from their books. Several times, they offered butter tea and tsampa to the other monks and some of the visitors who had brought their own bowl. I was busy with taking pictures (without flash of course!) and filming a bit. It sounded different but beautiful too. Funny thing was that two of the monks at the end of the ceremony had kind of a battle. Both sang very loudly and it seemed that everyone wanted to do it better than the other. Inbetween, there were songs with drums, horns and cymbals.

When the monks had finished, two of the young boys cleaned the floor and we had a closer look at the statues in the assembly hall. The rest of the group had arrived and our guide explained some more about the monastery. Its first parts were built in 15^th century and there are parts added every year, so this is a growing monastery!

We had breakfast in the monastery’s restaurant and then walked up again to see the shrines. In one of them we saw the very famous statue of Buddha Matreya that has become “the face of Ladakh” and is to be found on the cover of our guide book. It is so huge that you have to go to the second floor to see its face.

Also, we again learned about the wheel of life, this time about the outer circle. It was very interesting but too complicated to explain here. If you are interested in it, google it up. :-P

It started to rain a bit when we drove on to Shey. Shey is the former capital of Ladakh and still has a palace next to the monastery. There you can find a stupa which is too big to fit onto a picture and which has a golden top. We also saw another famous statue made of brass, copper and gold. It is the only of its kind and as tall as the one in Thiksey. The best thing was that we were allowed to walk around the base of the statue, which our guide never before did with a group. We weren’t prepared that the room where the statue was based was completely dark. So it was rather funny feeling the way around it in darkness. We went clockwise of course and afterwards we were happy to see light again.

We got to know that the closing ceremony of the Ladakh Festival was not in the afternoon but right now instead. So we went straight to the polo ground. For me, this was a bit of a problem because I hadn’t brought another battery for my camera and the one I had was already low. So not many photos of the ceremony...

To get in, men and women had to queue in different lines and were controlled exactly. Well, not that exactly because luckily nobody noticed my pocket knife. But we had to prove that our cameras were real and no bombs!

Our guide got us good places where all the dancers passed by when entering and leaving the stage. They wore very beautiful traditional clothes, the women had hats with lots of turquoise on it (that are called Perak), the men sometimes had swords or little shrines with a picture of the Dalai Lama. It was great to watch and to hear the music too. Unfortunately, the dancers danced for the important minister on the other side on the field, so we just saw their backs...

We left when the last dance started to avoid the crowd that would form as soon as the ceremony was over. On the way to our lunch, Annetraud and I stopped by in a shop to buy a blanket. We started a conversation with the young shop keeper and found out that he was Tibetan but born in India. He was very smart and knew a lot about Buddhism and about Europe too. He even estimated the population of Austria correctly! Other people we met here mixed up Austria and Australia... The Tibetan showed us some of his CDs and we ended up buying some of them and a DVD too. We hope that they will work at home. :)

So now we had lunch and my stomach seems to be fine with that. I guess that the apple juice yesterday evening was a rather bad idea... Luckily, I’m not really ill and I will not have any problems with flying to Delhi tomorrow morning (departure at 5:40am and being at the airport two hours in advance!!!) and then to go on to Agra by bus. It will be hard but worth it, I’m looking forward to another culture and climate shock and to meet the “real” India and the Islamic India in Agra and Delhi.

I hope that the hotels then will have WiFi or internet so that I’m no longer dependent on those Cybercafes which, as my favorite here in Leh, can close at any time.

Leaving Ladakh feels strange. I somehow got used to this country. It will be hard to say “Namaste” instead of “Julee” and I will miss the monks in the streets, the stupas and the prayer wheels. But India is more than Ladakh. I was a bit sad today when our guide said that we should take off our shoes for the last time, that this was the last time he is shooing us up to a monastery. Everything comes to an end. That’s what Buddhism teaches and that’s what happens all life long.

So good-bye Ladakh and hello Agra!

Tibetan Amchi and Shopping Day

On this chilly morning, we got up earlier to see the Amchi. An Amchi is someone who knows Tibetan medicine and here in Ladakh, they are particularly good at doing diagnosis by feeling you pulse. At ten past seven, the Amchi arrived together with our guide. She was very nice and Annetraud and I, who were there first, talked to her a bit. Her English is very good. Then we got started and Annetraud was brave enough to give away her arms first. She got the opportunity to get some medication against the altitude symptoms that she has.

Then it was my turn. The woman felt my pulse, asked some questions, felt it again, changed arms, changed arms again, asked again and after quite a long time she told me that I was completely healthy and didn’t need any medication. I was quite happy about that because in the end everyone except for me got some medication. In addition, the Amchi told me that I am taking the height more easily because I am younger and have more energy. Nice thing to hear!

We had breakfast after the Amchi’s visit because her diagnosis is better if you don’t eat anything first. Today we didn’t only have the good apricot jam again but also a sweet apricot juice, which was really good and tasted a bit like that you can buy in South Tyrol in those small glass bottles.

Annetraud and I are using our free day to do some shopping in Leh. It is exhausting to compare all the prices and that every shop keeper wants you to buy everything he has. You hear the same phrases over and over again: “I’m going home soon, so you get good price.”, “Morning costumers get good price.”, “If you want it, I make you a good price, Miss.”. But the good prices are still way to high and you first have to trade before you buy anything. I sometimes want the nice fixed and written prices back that we have in Europe...

So tomorrow we are leaving once again, this time it is going north, over the highest driveable pass into Nubra valley. This means no news for four days. :)

Shopping For Ladakh

Departure is in less than a week and I still have some things to do.

Yesterday I went to my doctor to get the medicine I'll take along. She wrote a very long list of medication and gave me some advice how to handle the long flight or headache.

After this visit, I did some shopping with my boyfriend Mario. He also needed some stuff because he is going to the USA Selection Camp that starts on September 25th. I bought thin gloves for cold evenings, socks and a case for my new camera. I didn't buy a second battery for it because it is much cheaper on the internet. I'll take my mum's and she's gonna buy a new one.

It was very hot, so we took a break, had some ice cream and I tested my camera. There are some really cool things you can do with it!

In the evening we went swimming to cool down a bit and to train as well. The water was just as warm as the temperature outside and it was really nice to swim. Have a look at the evening ambiance I captured with my camera. Hard to believe that today it is all rainy and cold (14°C right now).

On Tuesday, my aunt, my boyfriend and me are going to do a training tour to the Glungezer Hütte to acclimate. I hope the weather will be fine.