Khardung-La again and back to Leh

I slept really good tonight and felt much better in the morning. Voices woke me up and soon we saw that farmers had started to harvest the field behind our tents. I found it really nice that they sang while working.

I had a normal breakfast but without any egg omelet and with tea instead of milk and Ovomaltine. Then I packed and we were ready to go back to Leh.

We left Tirith at 9am. Luckily, there was not a lot of traffic and we only had to stop once because of street works. Three hours later, we again stood at the Khardung-La. It was rather cold and some snow flakes came down from the sky. Most of us went into the “highest cafeteria in the world” to have some Maggi 2 minutes instant noodle soup. It was a bit spicy but very tasty too. And the military guy behind the counter was nice and funny. He moved as if he was dancing to the music that was playing from the radio.

Can you make out what that is? Right. Lots of Maggi!

The drive down was without any problems and we reached Leh already at 2pm. We had lunch at our old hotel and now we are free for the rest of the day. Annetraud and I are going to do some more shopping. But before that we’ll have to get some more rupees... :)

Highest motorable road in the world to Nubra

At 7.30 we left Leh and started our long journey to Nubra valley. The two jeeps crawled up the mountain in the north of Leh and we gained altitude very fast. Road conditions were okay and the view was excellent. We could see the whole are around Leh and Stock mountain in the south of the city.

Some meters further up we came to the first check post. Nubra is a restricted area because of its location between the Chinese and Pakistan border. Tourists have only been allowed to visit for some decades and still you aren’t allowed to get there without a permit and not longer than seven days. After the post, road conditions worsened. In our guide book it is written that the street is better on the south side and we wondered what it would be like in the north because we already were shaken a lot.

Finally, we arrived at Khardung La. It is the highest motorable road in the world and located at 18380 feet, which is 5606 meters. Funny thing was that the two GPS and two altimeter which the group had showed only about 5300 meters. Never mind, it was 5600 for sure! ;)

Up there it was cold, not as cold as I expected but still I needed two jackets and still didn’t feel too warm. We walked around slowly to avoid being exhausted too fast in this thin air. When I wanted to have a look at the other side of the pass, an Indian man in a funny pink suit started talking to me and I thought that he wanted me to take a picture of him and his other pink comrades. But I was wrong. He wanted a picture with me! I was a bit taken aback but agreed. Another woman from our group was also asked to be on the photo and so we ended up in between lots of pink men. We talked to them and they said that they were from Mumbai and that they crossed the whole of India from North to South on their motorbikes. They gave me their mail and blog address and said we should check out their page: http://thebikeriders.blogspot.com/2011/09/high-altitude-desert-safari.html

After this adventure, we climbed up a bit to the big mass of prayer flags that people have brought here. Annetraud added one too. We didn’t follow the advise of an Indian to go even higher and enjoy an even better view because our guide already waved for departure and we didn’t want to overdo it at this altitude. Anyways, we are going to be back in three days. More time for reaching a 5000er summit then.

The drive down was really harder than up because the street was even worse. I really admire the drivers for their abilities to lead their cars past big holes, through mud and rivers and to still drive safely. And we often forgot about the shaky trip because we were busy with absorbing the incredible landscape that awaited us in Nubra. We did a short one hour walk next to a river and while half of the group nearly ran down, I enjoyed the scenery of the nice stream and the green all around. In addition, we there saw the first yaks. I didn’t know that they can have white tails.

I felt that the walk was much too short. We saw some beautiful birds and Himalaya marmots today. Unfortunately, I couldn’t take a picture of a flying bird. They are so beautiful!

the marmots are fat here too!

We had lunch in a garden in Kardong. I didn’t eat too much because it was too spicy for me but the others liked it. I guess I won’t be able to eat much in Agra and Delhi because Ladakh is known for its non-spicy food...

We sat in the cars again and after some time we came past a bend and saw the whole Nubra valley. It was indescribable. I tried to capture it with my camera, but I guess that I failed. If you ever come to Ladakh, you have to see it for yourself. There is a river that looks like a river should look like. It is broad with islands in between and floats just as it wants and is not regulated at all. Left and right of the river there are green areas and villages. And on top you can see a mountain range and in the far, there are the snow topped summits of the Karakorum.

As we drove on, we passed Diskit. Then we came past sand dunes. It looks a bit like in the Death Valley in the US. In between the mountains you suddenly have dunes with fine sand. We even saw some camels!

Then we arrived at our hotel in Hunder. In the program it is written that we have three nights in the tent camp but we will stay here for one night. The hotel is not the best, it would need some renovation, so let’s see how the food is.

Tomorrow, we will visit some temples in Hunder. We will also go hiking in the sand dunes to what I’m especially looking forward. And if we want, we can ride a camel too! I’m so gonna do that! :)

we had full moon tonight! it lit up the whole sky and the mountain range too!